Four-month Scandinavian road trip by campervan / Adventures of Sigi, Lisa and Martin
Part 2 through Finland
Four months traveling through Scandinavia in a campervan – that sounds like freedom, nature, and unforgettable moments, and that's exactly what we wanted to experience. My wife Sigi, our dog Lisa, and I set off together to discover Scandinavia. In this blog post, I'll take you along on our journey, showcasing highlights, challenges, and practical tips for anyone who wants to experience a Scandinavian trip themselves.
Preparing for the four-month trip to Scandinavia by campervan.
A four-month trip through Scandinavia requires careful planning. We thoroughly researched the route, equipment, and the specific requirements of each country. Scandinavia includes Norway, Sweden, Finland, and for us, Denmark – each country has its own rules for campers and dogs.
The following is important for the trio:
Route planning with flexibility: Instead of planning every day precisely, we leave room for spontaneous stops.
Equipment : A well-equipped motorhome with heating, solar panels and enough storage space for clothing, food and camping equipment.
Campsites and wild camping : In Scandinavia, wild camping is often allowed, but with respect for nature and the rules of the respective region.
Weatherproof clothing : Even in summer it can get cool and rainy.
We are now preparing for June 26, 2026, as this day will start early. We're not quite sure what "early" means, since the sun shines for almost 24 hours. We need to be ready to check in for the Wasaline ferry on time. We will then spend 7 hours on deck 7 on board the ferry from Holmsund (Sweden) to Vaasa (Finland).
Wasaline is the fastest ferry between Sweden and Finland.
The railway line from Umeå in Sweden to Vaasa in Finland runs through a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is the northernmost rail connection operating year-round. Here you can experience all four seasons of the North – from the icy cold of winter to the midnight sun in summer.
To all dog owners: Please don't leave your dogs alone in the car during the long drive. There are almost no restrictions on the ship. You can even take your dog with you to dinner on deck 8. Our Lisa had a wonderful time on the ferry. Woof!
The ride
Vasaline ferry from Sweden to Finland
The journey continued with a drive from Vaasa to Hiidenniemi. As always, we deliberately chose routes that avoided highways, and these were simply amazing. You see so much variety and have miles of roads all to yourself. Even at our destination, we soon realized we were practically at the end of the world, and the easiest way to get around is by motorboat. The Finnish guys arrive here all together in their boats and enjoy the delicious burgers at the restaurant. We think we're more than just the only place for miles around. I had a burger myself today, and wow, it was really good.
The journey and pictures of Hiidenniemi
Pictures of Hiidenniemi and its region in Finland.
Marjoniemi Camping in Hiidenniemi, Finland
Beautifully situated right on the lake. Thanks to solar power, we had a large pitch directly on the water and could fully enjoy nature. The campsite offers many opportunities, especially for fishing and swimming... brrrrrrr. The on-site restaurant is excellently run and highly recommended. The campsite is located in a place where you can enjoy seclusion from civilization. Even here, in a remote location, internet and Wi-Fi are readily available. The sanitary facilities are clean and have everything you need. We can warmly recommend the campsite and thank you for your hospitality. We didn't encounter any mosquitoes here at the end of June. It was lovely at your campsite, apart from the fact that the garlic in the burger was spicy :) and that some of the modern "campers" didn't respect the peace and quiet at night.
From Hiidenniemi, the journey continues to Vaala, a distance of only 170 kilometers.
As is almost always the case, we prefer rural areas to cities. The vast forests and miles of straight roads are absolutely breathtaking, yet never boring. Beautiful natural spots constantly appear along the way, and you can simply enjoy the scenery while driving slowly. This is easily possible on our routes, as cars are rare. This is how we discovered one of the few stone churches in Kainuu, quite remote. It used to be an independent church village, which was dissolved in 2006. Wooden construction is definitely the preferred method in Finland.
Scandinavia route from Hiidenniemi to Vaala in Finland
We're now quite far north, and it's clear that winter sports dominate life here. Numerous trails have been cleared for cross-country skiing, sled dogs, and other activities. The forest paths are all illuminated by streetlights, as the days with sunshine are very short in winter. We didn't actually go to Vaala, on the western shore of Lake Oulu , as we were thoroughly enjoying ourselves in the large birch and fir forest. You'd think you were feeling isolated and deserted, but the more you hike in the woods, the more individual houses or groups of houses you discover. For us Swiss, such sights in the forest are very unusual, and you'd certainly have the authorities on your back here. We now also know from the locals why there aren't any trash cans in and around the woods for dog waste bags. People simply leave them in the forest as long as they're not directly on the path.
Vaala on the western shore of Lake Oulu
Happy Beach campsite is located near Lake Oulu and offers everything you need. This campsite is also very affordable in Finland, and we were completely satisfied with everything. We received a warm welcome and were even taught some Finnish. It's a paradise for dogs, where they can truly enjoy the freedom of the forest. And as always, internet access is no problem.
Thank you so much for your wonderful hospitality, it was lovely staying with you.
Camping Happy Beach in Finland
Tomorrow, June 30th, after four weeks of travel, we're setting off again in search of gas. We're curious to see how big an adventure this trip to Finland will be. Calling a dealer or anything like that is pointless; as soon as you ask if they speak English, they hang up. On the second attempt, they don't even answer the phone. So, tomorrow we're off, and we'll take it as it comes, detours and all.
PS: In Sweden it was very easy to refill a German bottle.
After a hearty breakfast, we set off towards Oulu, as the Linde company had given us hope through an intermediary. Upon arrival, the discussions began, and we quickly discovered that there are no officially sanctioned gas refill stations in Finland. Since we only had one full bottle left and would be staying in Finland for an indefinite period, we decided to buy a Finnish gas cylinder, knowing full well that we would lose more than half the deposit upon returning it. Everyone wanted to make a profit, and after such a good breakfast, we accepted this loss. Thus, we were well-supplied with enough gas for heating and cooking, and relieved, we continued our journey. Our destination was Ranua, 260 kilometers away, with long, straight roads winding through vast birch and fir forests. Since we weren't using any highways, we encountered many bumpy roads and sometimes drove for kilometers at only 40 km/h. As always, however, we were rewarded with magnificent views.
Scandinavian journey across Finland
After a long, bumpy drive, we stopped for a break because Lisa was hungry too. We decided to drive into the woods, as usual. After just a few meters, we were surprised again when a beautiful farmhouse appeared, where we were allowed to stay for a while. Many thanks to the family, who didn't understand us, and we understood them even less.
Farm in Finland Farm in Finland Farm in Finland Farm in Finland Farm in Finland
After a while, we continued our drive along the seemingly endless straight roads through the Finnish forests. Although we had seen this landscape many times before, it was always different and fascinating. From this point on, we encountered reindeer almost every ten minutes, either strolling leisurely along the roads or suddenly emerging from the forest. Another striking feature is that the further north we travel, the warmer it gets. Here too, nature seems to be going completely awry at the moment.
Reindeer on the road in Finland
Next, we headed to Ranua, where we parked our campervan at the Wildlife Park Resort Camping. The campsite offers paved pitches with a lush grassy area. The sanitary facilities take some getting used to for us Swiss, and I think for Germans as well, as there's no private area for either men or women. Everything is open and visible, which is why showering here isn't relaxing for me. I've left my military service behind and don't need that anymore. You're also on your own in the evenings, as there's no supervision from early evening onwards, and the on-site restaurants close early. So be sure to stock up the fridge beforehand. Given all my negative impressions regarding the toilets/showers and the restaurant, the campsite is too expensive. Dog owners should also be sure to bring mosquito repellent. Things get very lively at the edge of the forest in the early morning and evening hours.
Ranua Resort Camping Wildlife Park Ranua Resort Camping Wildlife Park Ranua Resort Camping Wildlife Park Ranua Resort Camping Wildlife Park Ranua Resort Camping Wildlife Park
The main reason for our visit was Ranua Wildlife Safaris Park . We deliberately set aside two full days so that each of us would have enough time for the park adventure. Because of Lisa, we couldn't experience it together, as we never leave her alone. One advantage of camping at the park's own campsite is that the ticket is valid for all days, so we only had to buy one ticket. Admission costs €26.00, but we felt it was worth it for the animals' well-being. Full of excitement, we set off for the park. However, the disappointment didn't take long to set in, as I was thoroughly let down. Firstly, because of the way the animals were kept, like the polar bears and wolves, and secondly, because the enclosures for other animals were simply too small to provide enough stimulation. So the adventure was over quickly, and the photos we took were correspondingly disappointing.
Ranua Wildlife Safaris
We're now at the beginning of our journey through Lapland. We've already encountered reindeer and deer quite often, which are always wonderful experiences. Here are some pictures from Lapland, which also reminds me a little of my home. We're starting our hike with mosquito repellent spray.
Scandinavian journey through Lapland
Once again, here too, we can't buy anything with cash. Everything is handled via card payment, and we've come to find that very convenient.
Tomorrow our journey takes us from Ranua to Juuma, a short distance of 160 km. We will, however, have breakfast by a lake or river along the way.
From Ranua to Juuma
We drove again on the secondary roads, and because of the potholes, we could sometimes only travel at 40 km/h. But we were rewarded with more beautiful landscapes and numerous lakes. We were also able to observe the many reindeer in peace and quiet, as we were completely alone in the vast wilderness. For us Swiss, these are unique moments full of boundless emotion for this unspoiled nature, this wilderness, this vastness – simply wow. We made another stop and enjoyed a varied breakfast. No cars, nothing disturbed our meal. We continued our journey, up and down, and slowly reached Finland's famous winter region, including the town of Juuma at an altitude of 224 meters.
Travel photos from Ranua to Juuma in Finland
In Juuma, we stayed at the Ala-Juuma campsite . It's a small campsite right on the lake, simply equipped but clean. We received a very warm welcome and were able to choose our own spot. We enjoyed our stay very much and are grateful for the wonderful hospitality. Dogs are welcome and can swim in the lake. Card payments are accepted, so we didn't need any cash. However, the campsite is plagued by mosquitoes. It was a new experience for us, teaching us to live with this situation and still enjoy nature. But you really need insect repellent.
Ala-Juuma Camping Site, Finland Ala-Juuma Camping Site, Finland Ala-Juuma Camping Site, Finland
Juuma is a small village in Kuusamo, about 47 km from the city center and 20 km from Ruka. It is considered the gateway to the Oulangan kansallispuisto and is the ideal starting point for exploring the popular Pieni Karhunkierros hiking trail and its many rapids.
Pieni Karhunkierros hiking trail and the many rapids
Tomorrow, July 4th, 2026, we're setting off early. We're driving another 200 km to SantaPark – Santa's home cave. As always, the route led straight through the Finnish forests, past dozens of lakes, up and down, and we were entertained by the many reindeer. Even during the drive, we noticed again the magnificent blue of the waters. The light here is simply fantastic for photography. All the colors you see are unedited.
Scandinavia trip from Juuma to Rovaniemi
Upon our arrival at SantaPark (the home of Santa Claus)
The search for a parking spot for our campervan began. We were surrounded by change and numerous construction sites. Santapark is constantly growing and has become a pure shopping destination with a lot of "junk." You see everything quickly, and we don't think the snow in winter will compensate for all the negative aspects. Even more hotels and bungalows are being built to attract even more people. Luckily, we were there in July, and it was relatively quiet in terms of crowds. At 25°C, we reached the Arctic Circle and our destination for the day. Originally, we thought this was a place where we could spend some time and therefore planned to stay overnight in the free parking area without waste disposal facilities. We decided to drive to Rovaniemi and found a nice spot there for three nights. This gave us plenty of time for proper personal hygiene, laundry, and the like.
SantaPark – Santa Claus's home cave
The city of Rovaniemi
Rovaniemi is the capital of Lapland, a region in northern Finland. It was almost completely destroyed during World War II. Today, Rovaniemi presents itself as a modern city, considered the "official" home of Santa Claus and known for its Northern Lights.
Rovaniemi is the capital of Lapland
Ounaskoski Camping Rovaniemi
Ideally located in Rovaniemi, on the eastern bank of the Kemijoki River, this campsite offers camping right on the water, just minutes from the city center. It features attractive pitches with ample space. However, the price of €53.00 is far too high, and while the sanitary facilities are outdated, they are nonetheless clean. Disposing of chemical toilets is a real hassle, and there are long queues for the showers and toilets in the morning. For a campsite of this size, it's simply unacceptable. One could even say it's a rip-off, as there are hardly any alternatives.
Pictures from Ounaskoski Camping Rovaniemi
Tomorrow, July 7, 2026, we'll drive another 330 kilometers to Inari. This will bring us a big step closer to Norway. However, we'll have to make a longer stop in Inari because of Lisa, as she needs to see a vet before we cross the border.
Once we arrived, our ordeal began, and the vicious cycle started. We learned a hard lesson and now say: Attention all dog owners! When traveling from Sweden to Finland or Norway, you must take your dog to the vet in Sweden to have them dewormed. However, if you travel from Finland to Norway, this is no longer necessary, as Finland, like Norway, is free of worms. So, we had planned four days incorrectly, as we were only able to make an appointment with the vet a week beforehand. Relieved that Lisa didn't need a pill, we went to the campsite we had booked. It was the only one near the veterinary clinic, so we had no other choice. Once there, we drove onto the grounds and looked around. It looked like a prison or something similar, but we immediately knew that we had to bite the bullet and move on to find another campsite, as it was getting late. The CHF 120.00 were, of course, lost.
The next place we had planned and booked in four days because of the salmon in the region could thankfully be moved up, and we happily drove another 170 kilometers to Utsjoki. Upon arrival, we found it raining all day, as it had everywhere else, and found a very wet spot, surrounded by thousands of mosquitoes. After just ten minutes, Lisa was already bleeding all over her stomach, even though she had sprayed herself with insect repellent. We quickly decided to go to sleep, set off early the next morning, and begin our new adventure in Norway.
Unfortunately, due to the rain, there weren't many pictures from the trip from Rovaniemi to Utsjoki.
Scandinavian journey from Rovaniemi to Utsjok in Finland
Conclusion Finland:
The campsites offer beautiful, large pitches, but are rather expensive due to the sanitary facilities. People in Finland are very reserved and don't initiate contact on the street, for example with a "Good morning" or simply a "Hey." The country is very clean, and the system of everyone taking their rubbish home works exceptionally well. There are generally no problems with dogs, except in some restaurants, if you can find one. Shopping and petrol stations are easy to find, and prices are comparable to Switzerland. Refilling gas cylinders isn't possible anywhere here, so you're forced to buy a Finnish cylinder. You can then exchange this in Norway 1:1 for a Norwegian one without any loss. Forget about using cash in Finland; it's not preferred. The mobile network in Finland is fantastic; no matter how remote you are, you always have full 5G reception. This summer, analog telephones will also be switched off and will soon be a thing of the past. Finland is a beautiful country, and we enjoyed it very much. We always felt safe, just like in Sweden. Thank you, Finland.
Part 3 of the journey through Norway.
The journey began in Utsjok, Finland, and started in Bugøyfjord, where breakfast was enjoyed in the fjord. Afterwards, the trip continued to today's destination, Vardø.
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Photographed with mobile phone, Sony A1 or DJI drone © Martin Schnetzler
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