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Bavaria | Austria | Neuschwanstein Castle | Lake Forggensee | Lake Heiterwangersee | Travel | Adventure | Experiences | Lakes | Six Lakes Tour by Motorhome Bavaria-Austria

Writer: Martin Schnetzler
Martin Schnetzler
16 hours ago
13 min read

The three of us are now in our third year of motorhome training. We've already had the pleasure of experiencing many trips together.

Who are we?

Lisa , that's our dog, almost 7 years old. She's the main character in the documentary.

Sigi is my dream life partner. I can go through thick and thin with her.

Martin , that's me, and I'm trying to tell you a bit about my 6-week trip.

Our motorhome is equipped with a solar system consisting of three 120-watt panels and a 2000-watt inverter. The refrigerator runs on gas when stationary, which is economical.


The itinerary of our six lakes trip

Our first longer trip takes us to six lakes in Bavaria and the Austrian Tyrol. The goal: seven days at each lake, getting to know the landscapes and the people. Okay, that was Sigi's and my idea. Lisa's plan, of course, was: lakes equal water; water equals swimming... swimming... swimming...


What is it about?

Brief description of the landscapes and campsites.


Itinerary

Itinerary to our six lakes


The first stage,

Our destination was Lake Heiterwang in Austria, approximately 300 km away and a journey of just under 4 hours.

The drive, mostly on main roads, was very quiet, allowing us to fully enjoy the journey. Leaving the warm Fricktal region, we arrived in cold Tyrol at 1000 meters and settled into our campsite. It was a fantastic region with our dog, and we were able to hike and cycle around the large lake. The weather at this altitude was rather cold, and at night, with temperatures dropping to 7°C, we had to heat the campervan. Despite the frequent rain, the landscape was so inviting that we were drawn outdoors. We enjoyed the peace and quiet on the trails, observed the wildlife, and happily unpacked our sandwiches during our rest stops. At the end, we realized we hadn't taken a boat trip, as this connects the small and large reservoirs. This would unfortunately come back to haunt us later. To top it all off, on the first leg of our trip, we experienced our first hailstorm in the evening. Luckily, we weren't hurt. Anyone who follows the news knows that Tyrol is currently experiencing severe hailstorms.

Lake Heiterwang, Austria

  • Fischer campsite by the lake
  • Campsite | Dog | Heiterwangersee | Mountains
    Heiterwangersee | Austria
  • Heiterwangersee | Austria
  • Heiterwangersee | Austria
  • Lisa | Dog | Travel
    Lisa
  • Heiterwangersee | Austria
  • Fresh snow is in sight.
  • The Traveling Three
  • Lisa | Dog | Fountain
    Lisa from the bathroom
  • Heiterwangersee | Austria
  • Heiterwangersee | Tyrol
  • Heiterwangersee | Tyrol
  • Heiterwangersee | Tyrol
  • Heiterwangersee | Austria |
  • Lisa | Dog | Travel
    Lisa the guard dog
  • Heiterwang | Tyrol


Conclusion on the campsite and region:

Campsite: The pitches and sanitary facilities are clean and well-maintained. You'll want for nothing, and the staff are friendly, helpful, and highly motivated. The campsite is absolutely dog-friendly, so your dog will be adored! There are plenty of play areas and swimming spots for dogs. And if you'd like to treat yourself to a meal in a cozy restaurant, there's a large, lovely hotel right on the campsite. Shopping facilities Possible by bike in 10-15 minutes.

For us, 5 stars! www.camping-heiterwangersee.at


Region: Beautiful and peaceful countryside, ideal for dog lovers and hikers; great for children to play or walk in. Cycling on gravel paths is easy. Forest trails are generally closed to bikers to protect nature and wildlife.



The second stage ,

We covered the next 70 km, a journey of 1.5 hours, mainly on the main road via the Olympic town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Our destination was Lake Walchensee in Bavaria, just after the Austrian border.

The arrival was already very exciting, with so much new and surprising. In the gallery, you can see in one picture what you're not allowed to do around the entire lake. We were taken aback by the sheer number of signs in this region. Every few meters, there's a sign telling you what you can and can't do. It's crazy, and a complete waste of taxpayers' money. Nevertheless, you could watch the clock; the barrier at the campsite opened to the second. We were lucky enough to snag a fantastic spot by the lake when we made our reservation. Our initial plan was to go on bike tours. However, we soon scaled back this idea, as it's quite difficult with a dog. Two-meter-wide paved bike paths—there's simply no room for a dog. Because of this fantastic network of roads, the traffic from cyclists and joggers was just too heavy. So, we limited ourselves to exploring our immediate surroundings or using the public bus. As you can see, the landscape around Lake Walchensee is absolutely stunning.

Walchensee, Bavaria

  • Walchensee | Bavaria | Motorhome | Travel
    Walchensee | Bavaria
  • Walchensee | Bavaria
  • Walchensee | Bavaria
  • Walchensee | Bavaria
  • Prohibitions at Lake Walchensee
  • Taking a break at Lake Walchensee
  • Walchensee | Bavaria | Motorhome | Travel
    Photographer Martin Schnetzler
  • Walchensee | Bavaria
  • Walchensee with Lisa
  • Campsite | Walchensee
  • Walchensee | Bavaria
  • Walchensee | Bavaria
  • Walchensee | Bavaria



Conclusion on the campsite and region:

Campsite: The owner is highly motivated and wholeheartedly committed. The campsite is clean and has everything you need. The sanitary facilities are a bit unusual and not the newest. However, I want to say this with caution, as you also have to consider the price differences. The site itself isn't particularly green or grassy. A great feature is that a different food truck comes by every evening. Whether it's pizza or burgers, they're fantastic. The on-site shop is also very good. It has everything you could need for daily life, including various essential camping items. The campsite is in a very quiet location and perfect for relaxing. There's a limited number of pitches for dogs, and they aren't allowed in the lake.

For us, 4 stars www.camping-walchensee.de (-1 star due to restrictions on dogs and general sanitary facilities)


Region: Beautiful landscapes, lovely for swimming, well-developed cycle paths, good restaurants and cafes by the lake. Unfortunately, the path around the lake is unpleasant for dog owners, and although no one seems to follow the rule, dogs are prohibited from swimming in the entire lake. If you're hiking with your dog, you might have to carry a full bag of dog waste for hours. There are hardly any bins for dogs anywhere. However, there are portable toilets along the paths.


Conclusion: We wouldn't want to come back because the dog swimming ban is excessive and there are no official dog parks nearby. We really enjoyed our pitch and felt comfortable there.


The third stage ,

The journey continued with a distance of 200 km and a 3-hour drive on the main road. The route took us via Bad Heilbrunn to Rosenheim. We had to use the heating quite a bit over the last two weeks and therefore needed a gas replacement. After that, we headed to Seebruck to our campsite, Kupferschmiede. As always, we received a friendly and uncomplicated welcome, and you can more or less choose your own spot. "What you get is what you get" is the motto.

Suddenly, we were in a different world. At 33°C in Seebruck, a rapid temperature increase of almost 15°C, we were finally experiencing a real summer. We were overjoyed and our faces were beaming. But the joy of "it's finally summer again..." was short-lived. Soon we saw our friends from last year, and lo and behold, they had changed. I don't mean because of age, no, they were completely covered in red spots. Mosquitoes, or midges, or gnats, whatever these bastards are called, ruled the entire area around Lake Chiemsee. Great! We had planned all sorts of things: cycling, boat trips, and more. No such luck; the "creatures" dominated the entire day. At midday, in the intense heat, there was a window of two to three hours when they took their afternoon nap. Just like with people, the mosquitoes didn't want to go to bed and drove us crazy. It was infuriating and stank, because the insect repellent was practically glued to your skin. Everywhere you looked, people were spraying themselves with it, those who had managed to buy some. Seriously, far and wide, all the insect repellent bottles of every brand were sold out. Our third week: no rain, no hail, no cold, no restrictions... just millions of snoozers! I hate those creatures. We only had one option left: boat trips, because they don't like wind. The trips were a great relief and a joy for everyone. You felt comfortable opening your mouth and talking. Once we arrived on the islands, yes, ouch, ouch, and everything continued as before. It's so beautiful; everything looks so peaceful in the photos. In the evenings, the nights in the car were long in the heat of midsummer. From 7:00 PM onwards, it was time to escape the main swarm. We debated leaving for a long time, but Lisa loved the lake so much. For her sake, we were brave and persevered. What an experience the third week had.

Chiemsee, Bavaria

  • Coppersmiths | Chiemsee
  • Camping Kupferschmiede
  • Seebruck | Chiemsee
  • Seebruck | Chiemsee
  • Herrenchiemsee Castle | Bavarian
  • Herrenchiemsee | Bavaria
  • Herrenchiemsee Palace
  • Herrenchiemsee Palace
  • Bavaria | Herrenchiemsee
  • Ludwig Fessler Steamship
  • Fraueninsel | Chiemsee
  • Chiemsee | Herreninsel
  • Fraueninsel | Chiemsee
  • Ludwig Fessler
  • Chiemsee | Bavaria
  • Lisa in Lake Chiemsee



Conclusion on the campsite and region:

Campsite: The young couple who own the campsite are very helpful and easygoing. You receive a friendly welcome and are shown to the available, green pitches. The entire campsite is child- and dog-friendly. The sanitary facilities take some getting used to and are not up to date. The internet connection on the campsite is unreliable, and the mobile network is also weak. Shopping and dining options are available nearby.


For us, 4 stars www.campingkupferschmiede.de

(-1 star is for the sanitary facilities, the mosquito problem, internet access and waste separation).


Region: A beautiful, clean lake and relaxing boat trips. Interesting islands, churches, and a castle to visit. Well-developed cycle paths around the lake. Very dog-friendly and no major restrictions regarding swimming with dogs. The areas around the lakes are very clean and well-maintained. I've never seen such a thing in a tourist area. Bravo!


Conclusion: We would gladly come again, because it's lovely for both dog and human and we felt comfortable.


The fourth stage ,

We were very excited for another adventure in week four. What awaited us at our next destination? We drove the 130 km leisurely along the main road and, after shopping and everything else, arrived in about two hours. Our destination was Buchau on Lake Achensee. We received a very warm welcome at Seecamping Wimmer and were given a large pitch there as well. Everything was perfect at the campsite, and we eagerly enjoyed the scenery.

Here too, our plan was to combine bike tours with train and boat trips. You probably remember my comment at Lake Heiterwang about forgetting the boat trip and coming back to haunt us. We researched possible tours well in advance because we liked it so much here. Well, lo and behold, a shock and another lesson in campervan travel. Throughout Austria, muzzles are mandatory on all public transport. Oh, shock! All our plans and intentions were off the table again, because we had tried it with Lisa once. She looked at us with big, sad eyes, wondering why, after over six wonderful years, she had to wear that thing. She didn't deserve that, and we were happy to make sacrifices for Lisa's sake. She's a member of the family, and we stand by her unconditionally. Luckily, thanks to the well-developed bike paths, we were able to do some shorter tours. The Buchau waterfall was interesting to see. When we arrived, the first day was sunny, the second day brought rain, and lo and behold, out of nowhere, a waterfall appeared (see photos). Delighted to finally experience something, we hiked up the mountain the next day and admired this natural spectacle. Two days later, the weather was beautiful, and the phenomenon had subsided, leaving nothing to photograph in the forest. Oh wait, something else appeared on the descent... look, shhhhhh... wow, a bear!!!!! ........Lol, it's not real; it's an archery course.

Oh no, what else besides the muzzle is in store for us in week four! Noooo, see picture, another hailstorm! It was infuriating... and our thoughts were once again, please spare our skylights. Luckily, they were small hailstones and the damage was manageable, except for a small leak from the refrigerator vent. So, it had ruined our last few days again, and the adventure continued into week five. Am I Robinson Crusoe?

  • Achensee | Tyrol | Buchau
  • Achensee | Tyrol | Buchau
  • Achensee | Tyrol | Buchau
  • Achensee | Tyrol | Buchau
  • Achensee | Tyrol | Buchau
  • Achensee | Tyrol | Buchau
  • Seecamping Wimme | Achensee
  • Bears | Tyrol | Austria
  • Achensee Railway | Tyrol
  • Achensee | Tyrol | Buchau
  • Hailstorm at Lake Achensee
  • Water ingress during hailstorm
  • Wetness after the storm


Conclusion on the campsite and region:

Campsite: Clean and well-maintained throughout. The owners are very helpful and friendly. The site has everything you need, except for the weak Wi-Fi. The facilities are modern and very clearly laid out. There are shops nearby, and a restaurant on site for meals. The campsite is very dog-friendly. Some pitches are gravelled (to accommodate carpets), while others are grass. The location is wonderfully close to the lake and relatively quiet.

For us, 5 stars www.achensee-camping.at

Region: The landscape is beautiful, clean, and exceptionally well-maintained, unlike anything I've ever seen. There are plenty of interesting hikes to do even without a dog. The trails are superbly marked and safely maintained. The bike paths are very well-maintained, and as a Swiss person, I was amazed. Boat trips, gondolas, and Europe's oldest steam-powered cogwheel railway offer a wealth of activities. The region is very dog-friendly, with numerous swimming spots suitable for dogs. However, you'll soon find yourself having to explain that dogs aren't predators. You can practically feel that people are accustomed to seeing muzzled dogs in public.


Conclusion: We would gladly come again, we felt very comfortable with you, but next time with different plans for a dog.


The fifth stage ,

Things could only get better with the weather and the regulations, as our journey continued to what has become our second home. We drove along the main road again to Lake Forggensee. We comfortably covered the distance of around 140 km in 2 1/2 hours.

We arrived, settled in, and set off on our first walk. We once again enjoyed the beautiful scenery, the glorious summer weather, and yes, there were no mosquitoes here by the lake! Finally, we could go on bike rides, get our hiking boots properly muddy, and Lisa had free rein. The many castles and lakes were magnificent. Everyone was happy, and then, in week four, came the big shock. We weren't spared anything; the place we liked best in terms of weather and the dog situation was precisely where we had booked the fewest days. Lisa sadly said goodbye to the Citroën 2CV, and we said goodbye to the beautiful surroundings and good friends at the campsite. So, looking ahead with a positive outlook, we were excited for our last, sixth week after this wonderful experience.

Neuschwanstein Castle - Forgensee

  • Lake Forggensee | Neuschwanstein Castle |
  • Lisa and I
  • Neuschwanstein | Schwangau
  • Mariene Bridge | Neuschwanstein
  • Lake Forgensee | Neuschwanstein Castle
  • Neuschwanstein | Schwangau
  • The Lech River | Füssen
  • Neuschwanstein | Schwangau
  • Lisa at Swan Lake
  • Füssen | Lake Forgen
  • Neuschwanstein Castle
  • Sigi taking photos
  • Alpsee | Museum of Kings
  • Lisa | Forgensee
  • Neuschwanstein Castle
  • Füssen | Lake Forgen
  • Brunnen campsite | Füssen
  • Fountains | Lake Forggensee
  • Neuschwanstein Castle
  • Lisa and the new friend
  • Lake Forgensee
  • Neuschwanstein Castle
  • Füssen | Lake Forgen
  • Neuschwanstein Castle


Conclusion on the campsite and region:

Campsite: A fantastic campsite, clean and well-maintained. It truly lacks nothing, be it a restaurant, an on-site shop, or large, clean sanitary facilities. Water fountains are conveniently located throughout, and dogs are welcome. There's a large, well-kept beach for both dogs and their owners. Check-in and check-out aren't as family-oriented as at smaller campsites. There's less time for personal interaction and the usual gossip. The campsite is situated in an absolutely peaceful location. Enjoyment and relaxation are the order of the day, whether you use the on-site sauna or not.

5 stars for us www.camping-brunnen.de


Region: A fairytale landscape with picturesque lakes and castles. Simply fantastic, whether on foot or by bike. All hiking and cycling trails are well-maintained. In this area, from Füssen to the castles, the mountain railway, boat trips, and much more, there's plenty to explore. The entire region is also completely dog-friendly, with no restrictions whatsoever.


Conclusion: We would gladly come again, because it's lovely for both dog and human and we felt comfortable.



The sixth stage ,

We drove the roughly 70 km along the motorway without any stress. We were aware the weather was turning bad, but we were right by the lake and therefore had plenty of opportunities to relax. After a good hour, we arrived and received a very warm welcome. We had been given a huge pitch with a view of the lake. Full of enthusiasm, we went to the lake, and Lisa was immediately delighted. We had never seen her swimming so beautifully relaxed, and we were almost moved to tears. Our first day here at the campsite was very impressive. The next day, however, disaster struck. Lisa smelled the lake, and suddenly, she came back to us. Lisa, and no water! What had happened? And sure enough, there were a few dead fish lying on the shore. Okay, these things happen, so we left it at that for the day. The following day, we went for another walk with the dog, played with Lisa, and simply enjoyed the peace and quiet by the lake. Rest and relaxation were definitely in order after those five weeks. Back at the lake for a swim, oh dear, more dead fish, and not the same ones. What's going on with the lake? For the other swimmers, it seems to be the most normal thing in the world. We pondered this and retreated to the camper van for a chat. We were uneasy and spent the rest of the day lounging on the deck chairs. But even this wasn't to be, what was happening now? Gray clouds were visible in the distance, and we knew from experience that it wasn't going to be good. All our camping neighbors looked at us in astonishment as we packed everything up. I called out to them, "You don't have much time left to get your setup done." It wasn't long before a storm hit our camper van. For heaven's sake, please spare the skylights, not that nightmare from Tegernsee again last year. We spent the rest of the evening in the car, offering our help to other campers. The best comment was that he now understood why I tidied everything up every evening, and that he would do the same from now on. The third day, the nightmare was finally over. Our motivation and enjoyment of the past few days had evaporated. The car had many new little hail dents, and our hearts told us to pack up and recover at home. We followed our hearts and began the journey home. During the drive, we concluded that it had brought us even closer together, and ultimately, they had been lively and wonderful days. We are doing well and have remained healthy; the rest will follow, dear furniture store. Once upon a time, there was a grain of corn, and it had no horns...


Conclusion on the campsite and region:

Campsite: The pitches and the new sanitary facilities are very clean and well-maintained, and nothing is lacking. If there is anything to criticize about the site, it would be the slightly too small dishwashing area. The staff are absolutely friendly and helpful. In addition to the on-site restaurant and shop, guests can enjoy a swimming pool and other bathing facilities. The pitches are very large and on hard, gravelled ground. With water and electricity directly at the pitch, every luxury is provided. The campsite is completely dog-friendly, and there are plenty of dog play and swimming areas available outside. The campsite is situated in a very quiet location, perfect for relaxation.

For us, 5 stars www.alpsee-camping.de


Region: A rather flat, but beautiful landscape. The region offers a lovely cycle path along the lake. The swimming areas are nicely situated, but also very rocky. The risk of accidents involving children should not be underestimated. However, there are signs warning of this. The many dead fish at the swimming areas were very disturbing. They were still there for a long time in the morning. Otherwise, we can't say much, as we cut our trip short.



Conclusion: We'd gladly come again once the fish kill issue is resolved. The campsite is not at fault in this matter. We certainly felt comfortable there.


I hope you found my report interesting. I deliberately included few actual landscape photos, as you should explore the regions yourselves. The pictures were taken either with my drone, Sony camera, or mobile phone.


Regarding my reviews, I need to clarify something: the star rating of the campsite and the prices must always be taken into account when evaluating the criteria. Having a dog naturally makes things more complicated. Therefore, we say THANK YOU to all the campsites where we truly felt comfortable.



Motorhome | Travel | Adventure | Experiences | Lakes |

Photos taken with mobile phone ©Martin Schnetzler Laufenburg



 
 
 

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